22 Sep 2015

tracks magazine, surfing, swilly, Sumatra, Indonesia

Tracks Board Test Diaries

Adrift – 10 days with the fellas for the 2015 Tracks Board Test

It’s an enviable life, that of a pro surfer. Especially in the early days. When you’re young with the world at your feet and magazines like Tracks are requesting your presence on Indonesian boat trips to test surfboards at the world’s funnest and most remote breaks.

Early September saw a bunch of young Aussie crew jump aboard the Nomad with a simple, clear mission – provide feedback on 20 board designs.

Regular Nomad guest Simon “Swilly” Williams was shooting pics. Byron Bay based videographer Nick “Cheese” Colby was shooting video and freelance industry/media guy “JJ” scored a gig writing words and overseeing the whole thing.

The stars of the show were the boards (too numerous to mention) and the surfers – Garret Parkes (Byron Bay), Connor O’Leary (Cronulla), Heath Joske (former Northern NSW) and Jackson Coffey (Coolangatta).

During the 10 days we surfed 12 different breaks and optioned just as many more. The winds played a little havoc here and there, but we always found something decent and we never surfed anything less than head high.

Our best session saw six-foot sets pouring down a long lefthand reef/point. It’s a powerful place that has been surfed before, will be surfed again, but will not be disclosed in its entirety here on this site! Suffice to say, the boys tore the bag out of it, and did the same at every other spot too.

The busiest session saw about 10 other surfers in the water. Not bad.

Big props to Captain Will for steering us in the right direction each time. And to the crew of the Nomad – Iwan, Ronnie, Edo & Nolo.

Teramah Kasi (Thank you!)

 

Day 1 – Sat Sept 5th.

100 nautical miles
Macaronis. Head High. Onshore southerly wind.
25 nautical miles to …
Lance’s Left (late arvo) head high. Slight on/offshore.

Day 2 – Sunday Sept 6th
(morning) head-high+ Lance’s Left
6 nautical miles to …
(arvo) Head High HT’s (Lance’s Right)

Day 3 – Monday Sept 7th
35 nautical miles to …
Icelands (midday Overhead, offshore, then on-to-sideshore)
22 nautical miles to …
later afternoon – Hideaways, shoulder high, fast, coiling left.

Day 4 – Tuesday Sept 8th
6 nautical miles to …
All day – shoulder-high Pitsops, punchy fun rights.

Day 5 – Wednesday Sept 9th
60 nautical miles to …
Telo Islands.
Spongebobs – 3-5ft long lefthanders.

Day 6 – Thursday Sept 10th
40 nautical miles to …
Monkey’s – head-high, shifty rights
Late Arvo – EP’s, Waist-high beachbreak rights.
Secret beachbreak.

Day 7 – Friday, Sept 11th
25 nautical miles
All day at Latitude Zero, hanging.

Day 8 – Saturday, Sept 12th
16 nautical miles to …
Jurassic Park, Shoulder high lefts. Perfect, clean.
Mysto’s – head high, extremely hollow left.
Ep’s – head-high+ right hand trestles style peak. Beachie.

Day 9 – Sunday, Sept 13th
20 nautical miles to …
Le-Bah head high wedgy rights.
EPs – Late Arvo, head-high beachbreak rights. Shitty wind.

Day 10 – Monday, Sept 14th
30 nautical miles to …
Secret Beachbreak. Raining.

Day 11 – Tuesday Sept 15th.
120 nautical miles to …
Padang.

 

– JJ (jj@premiummedia.com.au)

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