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04 Apr 2019

One of the truly amazing things about this raw and wild equatorial tropical island environment is “Change” – winds change, swells change, tropical moods change, seasons change, guests change, surfboards change, even the vessels change over the years.

But when the actual surf spots change it is a reminder of how amazingly powerful and volatile our world is. This particular session is significant in highlighting this.

This once considered soft, mushy yet beautiful long boarder wave has been transformed into a balls to the wall, top to bottom barrel in minutes by a slight seismic shift of the ocean floor several years back thrusting the reefs and islands in this immediate area up out of the water several feet.

When this happens, and in Sumatra it happens more regularly than anywhere else in the world, it can be like rediscovering the whole island chain or parts of it again for the first time- what you knew as good reefs and surf breaks can now be not so good and what you thought was a bit soft and playful has now transformed into and epic tube.

Sometimes we gain more than we lose, sometimes the loss or deterioration of a true favourite can hurt.

The wheelhouse notebooks come out again as previously common knowledge swell direction and optimum tidal patterns for particular surf spots all need to be observed over time and learned from scratch again.

The whispers and discussion slowly start spreading through the fleet about the big losses first and the tight-lipped pioneering and more adventurous captains revert back to guarding their note books and “new look old favourites” like treasure.

With the captain playing his cards to perfection on this particular trip five young upcoming surf stars scored the session of a lifetime at the newly minted freight train left hander in mid 2016 pushing each other over the ledge and beyond what they thought possible of themselves in the furthest corners of the Sumatran Islands.

The effort to go the extra miles and take that chance on a new but old favourite in search of challenging perfection had paid off.

The session at the newly crowned “world class” reef break features heavily throughout Dom Sullivan’s TRACKS released short flick “Good Fellas” mainly filmed from the shore while Simon “Swilly” Williams captured some amazing stills from side on and closer to the action from Mangalui’s sidekick speedboat Foxy Lady to give a true perspective for the sheer power and beauty of the beastly waves on offer this day for the group of lucky young chargers.

 

Five Australian surfers escape the WQS grind and land in the Mentawai Islands for a blue ribbon swell event.

Travelling aboard the mythical Mangalui, the WCT hopefuls hunt down a rarely surfed left that delivers them ‘the best waves of their lives’, while on the tail end of the same swell a menacing right slab provides an entirely different kind of challenge. Goodfellas features looney tubes and laughs in surfing’s version of Disneyland. Showcasing the WSL surfers of the future, it’s also guaranteed to get you psyched for your next Indo trip. A film by Dom Sullivan Featuring: Connor O’Leary Wade Carmichael Cooper Chapman Kalani Ball Jackson Baker.

For more epic surfing images from many epic trips on the Mango and from around the world check out Swilly’s Instagram Click Here.

Massive thanks to Tracks as well, grab yourself the Surfers Bible. Click Here.

 

 

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